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“There's a feeling that you should be grateful to be acknowledged by the establishment.”

— Martyn Ewoma, Freelance Stylist / Creative Director / Photographer / Writer

ABOUT

So what do you actually do?

I basically use the arts to provide social commentary.

I also create content to connect brands with their audiences. I work across different creative disciplines because the best medium to communicate a social viewpoint or product is specific to what that point or product is.

What has your career path been?

I studied Visual Communications specialising in photography at Birmingham City University. I built my photography portfolio whilst studying so I'd be ready to work as soon as I graduated. Then I spent a full year just freelancing which was enjoyable but didn't find just photography and styling intellectually stimulating or challenging enough. So then I got into writing and really enjoyed the research element of it.

I then decided to do a Masters in Media & Communications. Partly to bolster my research skills and partly because the mainstream media in this country is essentially a racist lie factory and I wondered what allowed it to keep going unchecked. Since graduating I've essentially gone back to what I was doing before but with more writing and personal academic research, with a view of eventually doing a PhD.

Throughout my career, I have worked with brands such as BBC, British Vogue, Complex UK, Guardian, HYPEBEAST, Highsnobiety Soccer Bible, Adidas, Beats by Dre, New Balance, and Nike.

What is the best part of your job?

Being able to have my opinion heard and contributing to the social consciousness. As well as seeing ideas I've had in my head come to life. Having an idea and then seeing it in a magazine is really cool.

Why do you do your job?

I've just never had the motivation to put time into things I don't find interesting or gratifying. So when I found that photography was interesting and gratifying I just rolled with it!

One piece of advice for someone starting in your role?

There's so many, but the main two are:

1.    Know your monetary worth 

2.   Don't base your confidence on industry approval

The first is important because every artist wants their work to be seen, but the industry's infrastructure is fundamentally a business. Within that there's always going to be someone trying to get your work for less than it's worth - to get a promotion or pat on the back from a line manager. So they'll try and use your desire to share your art as a means to economically exploit you. Particularly if you're Black, because there's a feeling that you should be grateful to be acknowledged by the establishment. 

The second is important precisely because of the nature of the "establishment". When you start out you'll naturally think being aligned with a big brand or magazine confirms your work is good. But a corporation is just an office full of people. Due to nepotism and classism, the people who occupy decision making roles are there because they're privileged not because their taste is superior to anyone else's. 

Check out Martyn’s Instagram below!

 

DAY IN THE LIFE

Unless I'm on a shoot I spend my days sending and replying to emails whilst intermittently playing FIFA or Call of Duty, which isn't interesting. So I'll run through a shoot day instead…

On the morning of the shoot I'll try and arrive at the location a bit early and have a walk around. I usually do location scouting beforehand but exact ideas for shot composition tend to come to me spontaneously. When the model, MUA, and stylist arrive, I tend to just chat with everyone for 10-20 minutes to make everyone comfortable with each other to harbour a pleasant work environment. I then brief everyone on where we'll be going and what order we'll be shooting looks in, stopping for food etc.

The shooting bit is pretty self explanatory really! I tend to keep conversing with everyone as we're going through it. I'll typically have an assistant with a reflector to make sure the subject is evenly lit - which is difficult in England because the weather is sporadic so a good assistant is crucial. There's also the stylist on hand to fix the subject's clothes. 

In the evening I'll typically scour through the images to pick finals or if it's client based work, I'll send a contact sheet for them to let me know their finals to retouch.